How to Design and Make a Chessboard with a CO₂ Laser Engraver

A custom wooden chessboard is one of the most rewarding projects you can make with a CO₂ laser engraving machine. What makes it really unique is that it combines precision engraving, woodworking, and finishing techniques to create a functional piece that can last for decades. 
The basic process for making a chessboard is straightforward: design an 8×8 grid, create a strong contrast between the light and dark squares, engrave the design onto your chosen material, and finish the board to protect it from wear. 
Now, this project is very beginner-friendly, but it requires you to spend time on proper design, material preparation, and finishing, which will dramatically improve the final appearance.

Step#1: Select the Materials You'll Need

To create a chessboard with a CO2 laser engraver, you need the right wood, design software, and other important supplies like 200-400 grit sandpaper, wood stain or paint, and low-tack masking or transfer tape. 

1. Wood

All the best chessboards are made from light-colored woods that engrave cleanly and provide good contrast after engraving. These are usually Baltic birch plywood, maple, birch hardwood, MDF (for painted projects), and basswood. 

• I personally prefer a 3 mm (1/8-inch) Baltic birch plywood. It is an excellent choice because it engraves consistently, remains flat, and is readily available.
• Avoid warped sheets, plywood with large voids, or resin-heavy softwoods, as these can produce uneven engraving and inconsistent burn marks.

2. Design Software

You'll need vector design software capable of creating or editing SVG files. Obviously, the best option remains LightBurn, but you can also use Inkscape, Adobe Illustrator, or CorelDRAW. 
LightBurn is particularly popular because it combines both design tools and laser control in one program.

3. Other Important Supplies

• 200–400 grit sandpaper
  
• Low-tack masking or transfer tape
  
• Wood stain or paint (optional)
  
• Polyurethane, lacquer, or hardwax oil
  
• Tack cloth or microfiber cloth
  
• Wood glue (if building a layered board)
  

Step#2: Design Your Chessboard on the Software

Every standard chessboard consists of an 8×8 grid containing 64 equal squares. The overall size depends entirely on how large you want each square to be. A simple formula to use when designing a chessboard is: 
Square Size = Playing Area ÷ 8
For example, if your board is 400 mm total, your squares will be 50 mm each. For example:

Most home chessboards use squares between 40 and 55 mm, while tournament-style boards commonly use 2-inch (50.8 mm) squares.

Download or Design Your Own File?

If you don't want to design the board yourself, there are many downloadable SVG templates available online. The advantage of a downloadable template is that it saves time, and the grids are perfectly aligned. 

• If you do not want to design the grid from scratch, you can browse pre-made, high-quality vector templates via Etsy Laser File Chess Board.
  
• Step-by-Step Guides: For an in-depth walkthrough on preparing your wood, using software, and assembling a custom pieces box, check out the Instructables Chess Board and Figures Box.
  

If you'd rather create your own:

• Draw one square.
  
• Use your software's array or grid tool to duplicate it into an 8×8 layout.
  
• Assign alternating squares to a separate engraving layer.
  
• Keep the border on its own cut or score layer for easier editing later.
  

Organizing layers at the beginning makes the engraving process much simpler. Use the Array function to build your 8 × 8 grid, and place alternating squares on different layers so you can easily control which ones to engrave.

Step #3: Choose How to Create the Dark Squares

The beauty of a laser-engraved chessboard comes from the contrast between the dark and light squares. There are several ways to achieve this: direct laser engraving, paint/stain masking, and epoxy inlay.

Method 1: Direct Laser Engraving. 

This is the quickest method, and it is used to engrave every other square using laser settings that heavily burn the wood (e.g., low speed and high power). The laser engraves every other square, naturally darkening the wood through controlled burning.

• Advantages: It is fast, requires no additional finishing steps, and leaves a natural wood appearance. 
• Best uses: It works best for Baltic birch, maple, and basswood

Method 2: Paint or Stain Masking

Many woodworkers prefer masking the board before engraving. Engrave the squares, then stain or dye the dark squares. A common method is to tape over the entire board, use the laser to cut out the shapes of the dark squares, and peel off the masking.
This method produces sharper edges, deeper color contrast, and less risk of stain bleeding into lighter squares. 

Method 3: Epoxy Inlay

For a premium chessboard, engrave shallow pockets into the dark squares and fill them with black epoxy resin. Do a deep, shallow pass with the laser to carve out the squares, fill the gaps with black or colored epoxy resin, and sand the board flush. Although this requires more work, it creates an exceptionally durable and luxurious appearance.

Step#4: Prepare Your Material

Proper preparation makes a significant difference in engraving quality. Ensure your wood slab is perfectly level. Sand it smooth to remove any manufacturing marks or surface variations, which ensures a consistent, even laser burn.

Before placing the wood in your machine:

• Check that the sheet is flat and level.
• Remove dust and debris.
• Apply masking tape if desired.
• Secure the material to prevent movement.
• Focus the laser accurately.
• Turn on exhaust ventilation and air assist.

Even slight movement during engraving can misalign the checkerboard pattern, so ensure the material cannot shift.

Step#5: Set Up Your CO₂ Laser 

Every laser behaves slightly differently depending on its power, optics, and the material being engraved. When you are working on a project like this, the best approach is to treat recommended settings as starting points and always perform a material test first.
For engraving on 3 mm Baltic birch, I run my CO₂ laser engraver with relatively high engraving speeds and low-to-moderate power to produce a rich brown color without excessive charring. 

Baseline Settings for 3mm Baltic Birch

Creating a small test matrix before engraving the full board allows you to identify the combination that gives you the color, depth, and edge quality you want while minimizing unnecessary material waste.

Step#6: Engraving the Chessboard: Step-by-Step Instructions

Step 1: Load the Design

Import your SVG into LightBurn or your preferred laser software. Confirm that:

• The board dimensions are correct.
• Alternating squares are assigned to the engraving layer.
• Border lines are assigned to a score or cut layer.

Step 2: Frame the Job

Use your software's framing function to confirm that the design fits entirely within your material. This simple step can prevent ruined projects caused by incorrect positioning.

Step 3: Run the Engraving

Start with the engraved squares before cutting any decorative borders. Monitor the machine throughout the job. Never leave a CO₂ laser unattended while it is operating.

Step 4: Inspect the Results

After engraving, inspect the board for:

• Consistent engraving depth
• Uniform color
• Smoke staining
• Missed areas
• Excessive charring

Minor soot can usually be removed during finishing.

Step#7: Finish the Chessboard

The finishing stage is what transforms an engraved board into a professional-looking product.
Begin by gently sanding the surface with fine-grit sandpaper. Avoid sanding aggressively, as that would lighten the engraved squares. And remember to remove all sanding dust before applying your finish.
Popular finishes include:

• Polyurethane
  
• Lacquer
  
• Hardwax oil
  
• Danish oil
  

Applying two or three thin coats usually produces better results than one heavy coat. Besides protecting the wood from moisture and wear, a clear finish deepens the color of the engraved squares and enhances the natural grain.

Tips for Cleaner Results

A few simple techniques can dramatically improve your finished board.

• Always perform a small engraving test before starting the full project.
• Use masking tape to reduce smoke stains on light-colored wood.
• Keep your optics clean for consistent engraving.
• Use proper air assist during cutting to reduce charring.
• Allow engraved wood to cool before applying any finish.
• Sand lightly between finish coats for a smoother surface.

Small improvements like these often separate hobby-quality work from professional-quality craftsmanship.

Can You Make Matching Chess Pieces?

Absolutely.While many people purchase ready-made wooden chess pieces, a CO₂ laser can also produce custom sets. The simplest option is to cut flat engraved pieces, but many makers create interlocking designs that slot together to form three-dimensional pieces without requiring a CNC machine.
Because designing laser-cut chess pieces involves kerf compensation, slot sizing, and assembly techniques, it is usually treated as a separate project from making the chessboard itself.

Final Thoughts on Designing and Making a Chess Board With a Laser Engraver

Making a chessboard with a CO₂ laser engraver is an enjoyable project that combines precision, creativity, and woodworking into a single build. By starting with a well-designed vector file, choosing quality materials, testing your laser settings, and applying a durable finish, you can produce a chessboard that looks beautiful and stands up to years of use.
Whether you're making a personalized gift, adding a handcrafted item to your online store, or simply expanding your laser engraving skills, a custom chessboard is a rewarding project that showcases what a CO₂ laser can accomplish.
You may also be interested in material settings for laser engravers, based on Murphy’s law.